Redmond Residence: Foundation Walls

Posted on May 28, 2011 by admin

With the footers poured, it was time to move on to erecting the foundation walls. Since this house includes a basement, the foundation walls are constructed of poured concrete. Here you can see the forms for the walls just before the pour:

foundation wall forms

The forms are held together using metal clips which also allow for the placement of rebar within the concrete. On the outside of the forms, 2×4 braces lock them in place for the pour:

foundation wall forms

With the walls formed up, the pour was completed on Wednesday. Thursday the forms were stripped and behold, a basement:

basement walls

Later on Thursday we applied LN16 waterproofing to the exterior areas of the foundation that will be underground. With this out of the way, we were able to begin with the installation of our groundwater controls. The first stage is to install draintile in 3/4 inch rock covered with filter cloth around the all of the basement walls. This prevents hydrostatic pressure against the exterior of the walls and combined with the sandy soil of this jobsite will allow for excellent exterior drainage.

Here you can see the filter cloth applied over our exterior drainage. You can also see the thick black goop that is the waterproofing on the wall:
exterior basement drainage

Here we’ve pulled the filter cloth back so you can see the close up of the rock. You can see the depth of the rock is several inches higher than the footer and it is right up to the wall. The footer being four inches out of the ground means the rock is both adjacent to and on top of the footer to shed water into the draintile that is placed along side the footer and will later be connected with the interior drainage system:

rock installation

With the exterior drainage system in place, it was time to backfill the foundation. With all that sandy soil sitting around from the dig, we had plenty of good dirt for the job. Next up will be the interior drain system and then we’ll pour the basement floor.

One final photo and word of explanation. This particular house will have 14″ floor joists on the first floor so combined with the sub-flooring, we’ll have a nearly fifteen inch floor system on top of this foundation wall. Even with four inches of concrete on the front porch, we’d have way too much of a step up into the front door. To resolve that, we had the porch walls poured 8″ taller than the foundation walls so that the step into the house will be minimal:

porch wall height

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Redmond Residence: Getting Started

Posted on May 25, 2011 by admin

It is always fun to break ground on a new project.  Prior to getting to pull up that first bucket load of soil, there is a lot of paper pushing that must be completed.  The amount of work required prior to building a new home has been steadily increasing with the passing of every new government regulation and tightening of banking standards.  But on the day you can actual start construction, all of that paperwork effort and hoop jumping just washes away and the project becomes tangible.

On Monday, we broke ground on our newest project in Centreville…a new home for the Redmond family.  This will be a two story farmhouse style home with an unfinished basement.

Basements are somewhat rare on the Eastern Shore, but in the higher parts of the peninsula (like Centreville), they are very feasible.  In this photo, you can see that Monday’s work was to excavate the hole for the basement:

digging the basement

The bottom couple feet of this dig was quite sandy. That means excellent drainage and for a basement, that is a beautiful thing:

lots of sand

With the dig complete, Tuesday meant it was time to pour footers. With basements, we partially dig down and then form up to give us a footer that will stick out of the ground four inches. This will later allow us to cover the interior floor of the basement with gravel for drainage but still have the basement concrete slab site right on the footer:

digging and forming the footers

And an overview look of the footer layout from the garage end of the house:

footer overview

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Energy Star Part 3: Thermal Bypass

Posted on March 31, 2011 by admin

The Thermal Bypass Checklist is a well-defined checklist, successful completion of which qualifies a home for the Energy Star rating.  When the US Environmental Protection Agency in 2006 moved to establish a new set of guidelines for Energy Star qualification for homes, it was a response to changes in building codes and standards; this eventually led to another requirement – the thermal bypass inspection.  The standards of the thermal bypass inspection have grown increasingly more stringent with each revision, progressively ensuring higher standards for home energy efficiency.

Thermal Bypass:  An Overview

The primary purpose of the thermal bypass checklist is to ensure a house’s “building envelope” is tighter.  It is meant to provide standards for sealing and insulation installation practices.

Thermal bypass is the movement of heat around or through a home’s insulation.  When there are gaps or pockets between air barriers and the insulation, or when air barriers are lacking or missing, heat or cold can enter or exit the building envelope…this is known as a thermal bypass.  A related term – “thermal barrier” –  occurs when heat flow is restricted or slowed down through insulation.  In our last post, we discussed various types of insulation and why some operate as better thermal barriers than others.

The guiding principle of the thermal bypass checklist seeks to eliminate gaps, voids, or compression that would allow for heat to enter or leave the home, thereby adding to the heating load.

An independent home energy rater who is a registered partner in the Energy Star program must complete a Thermal Bypass inspection checklist sheet to determine if a house complies with the items in the checklist.  If there are any corrections to be made, these corrections have to be done before a home can qualify for an Energy Star rating.

It should be noted that if energy codes imposed by a state or region contradict the Energy Star Thermal Bypass Checklist, the state or local/regional energy codes take precedence.

Six key thermal bypass inspections:

  • Overall air barrier and thermal barrier alignment
  • Walls adjoining exterior walls or unconditioned spaces
  • Floors between conditioned and exterior spaces
  • Shafts
  • Attic ceiling interface
  • Common walls between dwelling units

To meet these inspections, we ensure that all insulation is covered on all six sides.  This generally means using an additional barrier on the rear side of walls that share space with unconditioned space such as attics.  Insulation behind tub and shower units should also be provided with an additional barrier since they will not be covered in drywall.

Avoiding gaps in insulation is paramount.  This is much easier to achieve with the use of a sprayed in insulation such as cellulose or foam.  (See the insulation post).

Attic accesses must be sealed and gasketed.  We use an insulated cover over our pulldown staircases that includes a rubber gasket and a magnetic strip to hold it closed.

Open chases or shafts in framing must have an air stop installed to prevent attic or crawlspace or basement air from traveling through the home’s living space.  Likewise, areas where roof rafters may return behind a knee wall (half wall) in space that is otherwise conditioned should be sealed off.

Foam sealing should be applied around all pipe and wire intrusions from unconditioned space.  We also foam seal our sill plates to the floor as well as framing corners.

All in all, the thermal bypass checklist and inspection is an extremely important part of the ENERGY STAR process.  Afterall, an efficient heat system is of little good if the space it is heating allows for air to easily vacate the premises.

 

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Energy Star Part 2: Insulation

Posted on March 3, 2011 by admin

wall insulation in new homeIn our last post, we began our conversation as to what makes a home an Energy Star home. We talked about windows and the U rating – the indicator of how well a window product prevents heat from escaping. Today we’re going to talk about insulation which has a similar rating system for measuring performance known as the R-value.

The R-value of insulation is a measure of its thermal resistance to heat. An R-value rating is not limited to just insulation…you can measure and calculate an R-value for an entire wall (it’s insulation, sheathing, and framing members combined). Homeowners want to know if their homes are built with insulation materials that have the ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-value, the better the insulated the home.

Proper insulation of a home is a key component of an Energy Star home. Regional standards dictate what R-values must be met in order to qualify for an Energy Star label.
Think of insulation as a large protective blanket that covers your entire house. When insulation is done properly, it can translate into higher comfort levels, higher resale value, lower bills, and long term durability.

Types of Home Insulation

There are five predominant types of insulation being used for residential construction these days:

  • Fiberglass batts
  • Sprayed cellulose
  • Sprayed fiberglass
  • Open cell foam
  • Closed cell foam

Fiberglass batts insulation – Fiberglass batts have been around for decades and are certainly the most well know type of insulation on the market. The “batts” come in rolls, generally with kraft-faced backs (paper), and are rolled into the wall cavities and stapled in place. While fiberglass batts are generally the most affordable type of insulation, there are drawbacks to this type of insulation. Batts do not stop air transfer. They are not form fitting to fill cavities around pipes and other wall intrusions. Because of their construction limitations, they are prone to leaving gaps in wall cavities which diminishes their effect R-value.

Sprayed cellulose insulation – Sprayed cellulose insulation makes use of recycled materials like old newspapers and boxes. It’s a good insulation type for spaces and gaps that are difficult to fill because the insulation material is shredded into manageable nodules or granules, so a more even thickness is achieved. Because it is packed densely into wall cavities, it prevents air transfer and fills every vacant space giving the wall a nice effective R-value. It is also more sound resistant than fiberglass so it keeps your home insulated from exterior noise. It is also generally factory treated with a moldicide and a fire preventative.

Sprayed fiberglass – Sprayed fiberglass is the same material found in batts only it is blown into the wall cavities. Some manufactures of this technology add adhesive so that it stays in place and decreases air movement. Because it is sprayed in place instead of rolled in place, it does an adequate job of filling wall cavities. R-values of sprayed fiberglass vary by manufacturer. A common difficulty with sprayed fiberglass is that its installation method often creates bulges extending past framing members that prevent proper drywall installation.

Open cell foam insulation – Open cell foam insulation has an R-value similar to sprayed cellulose. It is generally cleaner to install than cellulose but is more toxic during installation. It is more expensive than cellulose or fiberglass. It fills wall cavities tightly which makes it effective in preventing air transfer.

Closed cell foam insulation – Closed cell foam insulation has foam cells tightly closed and packed together, filled with a gas to help the foam rise and expand, making it a good insulator. It generally has a much higher R-value than the other types of insulation but comes with a much steeper price tag as well.

Final analysis

At Weese Homes, we typically utilize the sprayed cellulose insulation for its superior insulative properties at a reasonable price point. While closed cell foam has a higher effective R-value, it is cost prohibitive in most applications at this time. Foam insulations are not as environmentally friendly because they require high energy use during manufacturing and are manufactured of fossil fuels and soy products. Cellulose on the other hand, is manufactured of recycled materials and uses only a negligible amount of energy during manufacturing.

Just how good is cellulose insulation at thermal resistance?  Check out this video from Applegate Insulation, our cellulose manufacturer:

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What Makes A Home Energy Star?

Posted on February 10, 2011 by admin

Andersen Window cutawayDo you know the meaning of an Energy Star® new home? Our environmental awareness has increased in the last decade, but do people really know what features would give a house an Energy Star® rating?

In general, people understand the concept of energy efficient appliances and energy efficient heating. But there is a lot more that goes into the Energy Star program than just fixtures:

• High performance windows
• Superior insulation and air infiltration prevention
• Tight construction and ductwork
• Efficient heating, cooling and ventilation systems
• Efficient appliances and fixtures bearing the Energy Star® symbol
• Third-Party verification

The requirements for achieving an Energy Star® label on a home become increasingly more stringent with every revision of the program. These changes make it difficult to identify all of the specific criteria and have it be meaningful over time. We can, however, discuss in general terms, the primary benefits of an Energy Star® home.

Let’s start with windows. The US has fenestration guidelines for windows that are based on four climate zones. For this reason, energy-efficient windows in Florida may not necessarily be energy-efficient in Michigan. That said, there are elements of window construction that contribute to the energy efficiency of every window.

Our window supplier – Andersen Windows – combines these essential elements that make their windows top performers for our home models. Among these is “Low E glass” which acts like your typical household sunscreen, blocking out harmful ultra-violet rays. Andersen’s high-performance Low E glass is 35% more energy efficient than ordinary double pane glass.

Andersen Windows use natural wood for both aesthetics and sustainability. They have tough protective shells and thus do not need to be painted. The natural wood frame and wood core members provide insulation. This stands in contrast to vinyl frame or metal frame windows which have hollow cores.

We have been very satisfied with the performance of Andersen Windows and the fact that they participate in the US Department of Energy’s R-5 program is added assurance that their U Factor performance. The U Factor is an indicator of how well a product prevents heat from escaping. The lower the U Factor, the more efficient the window is.

Andersen’s product line nicely complements our home building efforts. While they offer a product line for every budget, each of their product lines offers the energy efficiency we demand.

Windows are a significant factor in containing heat within the home, which translates into lower heating bills.

In our next post, we will discuss the insulation and air penetration elements of the Energy Star® program.

The image above is provided by Andersen Windows and is a cutaway of their 400 series Tilt-Wash window.

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Kitchen trends for 2011

Posted on January 30, 2011 by admin

Bigger is better

Though people are opting for smaller homes these days, kitchens continue to grow is space and size. In some homes, people are sacrificing formal dining areas for larger kitchens as the kitchen must serve as a space utilized not just for preparing food. Families see the kitchen as the hub of the home and it has become dining area, family room, homework center, even entertainment locale.

White is the new white

White cabinets are making a huge comeback due in no small part to the fact that they never went completely away. That is to say, white is considered timeless and classic. The bright tones of white cabinetry give the kitchen a spacious, open feel. White can also accommodate any decorating taste from modern to traditional.

Modern Style Cabinetry

More and more, people are opting for the clean lines and minimalism found in many modern cabinet designs. Modern style cabinetry was once reserved for higher end cabinet lines. Today, however, manufacturers are offering a nice selection of modern style cabinetry at a more affordable price range.

Large Islands

As kitchens continue to grow, so do islands. While this trend isn’t new to 2011, it certainly will continue. The large center island forms both a very usable space and a decorative focal point for the kitchen.

Old Standbys

Stone countertops and stainless steel appliances continue to be incredibly popular. We’ll also continue to see and emphasis on energy efficient appliances and lighting.

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Accessible Kitchens

Posted on January 11, 2011 by admin

In our last post, we showcased the unique designs of some intriguing kitchen sinks – a refreshing departure from your standard, run-of-the-mill kitchen sink that you often see at hardware stores ready for shipping. These designer kitchen sinks make for great conversation starters and integrate aesthetics into the whole concept of modern kitchen design.

When it comes to kitchen design, the concept of Universal design is far from just a trend. Universal design refers to design that takes into account the needs of people with reduced mobility and making the kitchen more accessible in general.

One day, while in a restaurant, we overheard a woman saying:

“I just came from the builder’s office. He called me in so I could approve and sign the layout for the kitchen. What surprised me was he didn’t ask me if there were any other people with special needs who will also be using the kitchen.. I thought that was odd considering that there are so many innovations in home design for the handicapped and elderly. I’m not there yet, but that meeting was a great chance for me to have him change the kitchen layout so I wouldn’t have to bend and look for things. My present kitchen is a turn-off. I’m forever bending or standing on my toes to reach out for something, or standing on a chair to get to hard-to-reach areas.”

I have to admit, I wouldn’t think to ask that question either. But then again, I leave the kitchen design and plan up to our professional kitchen designers. Still, the conversation got me thinking.

Certain factors go into the “universal design” concept. In the kitchen, for example, ample space must be allotted for someone in a wheel chair and to enable that person to make a U-turn without difficulty. Another recommendation is to have tables and countertops at varying heights that would accommodate standing, sitting, and arm reaching. One writer recommends that kitchen cabinets should include lazy susans and shelves that slide smoothly out of lower cabinets. Full extension drawers are also ideal for people with physical limitations.

Manufacturers and designers offer a wide range of choices. We do a lot of business with the Merillat company because their product line caters to a larger audience with different needs. Their roll-out tray option is the perfect solution for people who don’t need to bend and hurt their backs and strain their necks, and is also the ideal alternative for people on wheelchairs.
Double Shallow Roll-Out Cabinet Trays

Another Merillat option is their double deep drawers:
Double Deep Roll-out Cabinet Trays

There are other aspects of kitchen universal design that can make life easier for people with physical restraints but may not be appealing to all homebuyers. In my experience, people love deep bowled kitchen sinks. Accessbility experts, however, recommend that sinks be no deeper than 5 or 6 inches. Buyers will have to make their own choices on what is important and what is not. That’s why you’re building though…you get to decide!

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15 must see kitchen sinks

Posted on December 23, 2010 by admin

Adding a little flair to your kitchen is no longer reserved for cabinetry and countertops. Manufacturers have turned up the creativity on kitchen sink designs and have produced some unique and attractive options.

The Vase Shaped Sink

Elkay Vase

Designed by New York Designer Jamie Drake, Elkay’s Vase shaped sink collection if offered with a variety of options including single bowl, single bowl with attached rectangular second bowl (shown), or double vase bowls. More Information.

Kohler’s Fete Sink

Kohler Fete

Primarily an island sink, Kohler’s Fete features two distinct basin areas in its organic shape. Made of cast iron, the sink is available in more than 20 colors. This sink also features Kohler’s Limited Lifetime Warranty. More Information.

Sonoma Cast Stone Chef Sink

sonoma cast stone sink

Sonoma Cast Stone makes unique and elegant sinks from concrete. It includes a stainless steel embedded wear plate and stainless steel drain board. It is available in 24 stock colors or can be made to a custom color. More Information.

The Rain Drop Sink from Elkay

Elkay Raindrop sink
Another sink from Elkay and designer Jamie Drake. The single bowl undermount sink features soft rain drops along the rear curve and a unique offset drain. Stylish and functional, but pricey…the Elkay website lists it a $3,200.00. More Information.

The Bordelaise Sink from Kohler

Kohler Bourdelaise sink
Kohler’s Bordelaise Sink features a large round basin for filling and emptying pots. It is flanked on one side by a rectangular slope section giving you both a trough sink and prep sink in one. Made of cast iron, it is available for either a self-rimming or undermount installation. It is also available in more than 20 colors and features Kohler’s Limited Lifetime Warranty. More Information.

Sunflower Copper Farmhouse Sink

Sunflower Copper Farmhouse sink
Manufactured by Whitehaus, this is just one of many of the copper farmhouse sinks they offer. Each has a unique embosses front with an ornate design. Copper sinks are expensive (I found this one online for $2,791.00) but proponents of copper sinks often point out coppers natural antibacterial effect. More Information.

The Elkay Mystic Series

Elkay’s Mystic Series features a number of unique designs and it wouldn’t do the series justice to only show you one or two. So here is the collection:

Mystic Wave (More Information)
Mystic Wave

Mystic Martini (More Information)
Mystic Martini

Mystic Reverse Taper (More Information)
Mystic Reverse Taper

Mystic River (More Information)
Mystic River

Mystic Shelf (More Information)
Mystic Shelf

Mystic Puddle (More Information)
Mystic Puddle

Mystic Bean (More Information)
Mystic Bean

The Luna Sink

The Luna Sink
Manufactured by Native Trails, the Luna sink for a perfect half moon giving your island trough sink character and style. It is available in either an antique finish (shown) or a brushed nickel finish. More information.

The Cabana Sink

Cabana Sink
Another sink Native Trails, the Cabana sink can be installed as an apron front sink or as an undermount sink. It is available in either an antique or brushed nickel finish. More Information

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Nuheat warms the heart; and the floor!

Posted on December 23, 2010 by admin

When a solid product is backed by a solid company, it bears noting. While I’ve known of the Nuheat product for some time, it was only recently that I discovered the quality that resides in the people of Nuheat.

Nuheat manufactures floor warming systems for use under tile, stone, laminate and wood floors. The products are controlled via programmable thermostat and are installed under your finished flooring to provide an enjoyable warmth under your feet.

Having installed the system for a few customers over the years, I was certain to include Nuheat’s mat system under my master bathroom tile when I built my new home in 2006. I utilized two rectangular mats to accommodate my L shaped floor. The mats work together in unison and connect to just one thermostat. For those who need to fit angles and curves, Nuheat offers a cabling system which will provide for a fully custom installation. The programmable thermostat is very easy to use. Once I set my program, I just left it be.

For just shy of three years, everything worked great and I happily enjoyed a warm tile floor in the dead of winter. And then one day my feet were greeted with the surprise of cold tile. I checked the thermostat, and it was on. I checked the program, and it was set correctly. But the floor was not warming…and the thermostat agreed…the temperature would not rise above 66 degrees. I whined to my wife, and she rolled her eyes. Admittedly, I felt whimpy. But the floor was cold. How easily I had become spoiled! Later, when my wife entered the bathroom, she confessed that she was in full agreement and that her earlier scoffing was unwarranted.

So on the web I went to the beautiful Nuheat website where I read through the useful information and then decided to give Nuheat a call. So I dialed the toll free number and awaited the automated voice telling me to press one for English. Only, that didn’t happen. After just a few rings, a live person answered the phone and said, “Thank you for calling Nuheat, how may I assist you?”. I was actually caught off guard. These days I am so accustomed to automated answering that I hadn’t even bothered to prepare and explanation for my call. I stumbled over my words and finally uttered, “Yes, may I speak with someone that can help me with troubleshooting”. After a quick connection I was on the phone with another very nice young lady who was ready to assist me with my problem. What’s this? No holding for tech support? Just right through to a live person that will help me with my problem. Unusual, but appreciated. After explaining the situation, the tech walked me through the steps for testing the system to determine the problem. In my case, it involved using a piece of equipment called a digital multimeter. I don’t have one of those, but I knew my electrician would. I called him over a few days later to help me troubleshoot and we determined it was thermostat that was causing the problem.

My system was almost three years old so I had no expectation that the thermostat would be covered under warranty. The mats have a 25 year warranty, but my understanding was that the thermostat was only covered for one year. So on the internet I went searching for a replacement thermostat. I was unable to find my exact model but found one that looked the same with a slightly different model number. I was pretty sure it would work, but I decided to call Nuheat again just to make sure. This time, I was prepared for the friendly live person that would answer the phone. Back on the phone with tech support, I asked my question about the compatibility of the thermostats. The tech assured me that they were indeed compatible. She didn’t stop there, however. She asked my why I thought I needed to replace my thermostat. So I reiterated my story, and she agreed that it indeed sounded like the thermostat needed replaced. She asked me how long I’d had the system. Just less than three years, I told her. She then informed me that if it had been under three years, she could go ahead and send me the replacement thermostat at no charge. Really? Wow. Sounds great! A few days later, I had my new thermostat, replaced the old one, and my piggy toes were happy again.

At no point in my calls to Nuheat did I tell them that I am a homebuilder. Their service as a matter of routine was exceptional. As many companies today continue to insulate themselves from their end-users, companies like Nuheat will shine.

As for the product, I’m quite a fan. Having a warm tile floor on a cold winter’s morning is a luxury I certainly enjoy.

Installation: Moderate. Installing the product is not difficult. You will need a dedicated circuit that is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). To ensure the mats are functional, you will need to test the units in three phases which will required coordinating between your electrician and your tile setter. The mats must be tested by your electrician before they are installed on the floor. Then, the tile setter will apply thinset to the underlayment and the mats are installed on top. Once the mats are down, another test must be performed by the electrician before the tile is installed. Another layer of thinset is applied and then the tile can be installed. After the tile is completed, a third and final test must be performed. If you are applying the product under laminate or engineered wood, the process is similar but a different thermostat is required.

Cost: Moderate. In addition to the cost of the system, you should expect to pay a little more for the extra work your tile setter will encounter and the delays that may be caused by needing to coordinate with the electrician. You should also expect to pay the electrician for his time in the testing, the installation of the dedicated circuit, and the installation of the thermostat.

Performance: Strong. The warmth provided by Nuheat’s warming systems can really make quite a difference in the comfort of your home. The heat is radiant heat and is produced by electricity. While heating, Nuheat claims that 30 square feet of Nuheat’s system will utilize about the equivalent energy as would be used by three 100 watt light bulbs. The electricity usage if further reduced by taking advantage of the programming functions of the programmable thermostats.

You can find more information about Nuheat products at the Nuheat website.

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Review: Dow Structural Insulated Sheathing

Posted on December 23, 2010 by admin

structural insulated sheathing

What if you could get structural bracing, insulation, and a weather barrier in one sheathing?

Dow’s SIS™ (Structural Insulated Sheathing) provides just that. One sheathing-three distinct and important functions:

Structural Strength – Providing structural strength to exterior walls has always been the primary function of wall sheathing. SIS™ board’s high-pressure laminated structural member provides structural lateral bracing and transverse loads and meets or exceeds structural codes for wall sheathing.

Insulation – SIS™ board’s closed cell, moisture-resistant rigid polyisocyanurate foam insulation provides an R value of 3.0 for the ½ inch board and 5.5 for the 1 inch board. The added R value provides better energy efficiency and reduces air and moisture intrusion.

Weather Barrier The non-reflective resilient exterior surface offers water-resistance with ease as it is factory installed. Apply Dow’s WEATHERMATE™ tape over the seams and no further house wrap is necessary.

Traditionally, OSB and other plywood products have ruled the construction world when it comes to wall sheathing. But wood products can only provide the structural function. Separate products are necessary to meet the equivalent function of one sheet of SIS™ board. This can present difficulties for builders.

Prior to SIS™, builders would have to install foam board and a weather barrier house wrap over top of wood sheathing to provide this functionality. Because door jambs and window jambs are manufactured to predetermined sizes, difficulties can arise as the addition of foam board increases the width of a wall .

Yet having a foam insulation on the exterior walls is certainly more beneficial than wood alone. Wood framing and sheathing provide on a negligible R value. Installing foam insulation will not only add to the R value of your wall cavity insulation, but it will provide insulation over wall studding where there otherwise would be virtually none. Wall studding accounts for 12-18% of your wall surface. That’s quite a bit of space to leave without insulation.

SIS™ board solves these difficulties by providing all of these benefits in one sheathing. Alleviating the construction difficulties that can arise from using multiple products is certainly desirable.

My Review

SIS™ board is relatively new. While it is now available nationwide, I was fortunate to be in one of the early release areas and was able to try it for myself early on. Overall, I was pretty impressed with the product and the results. I was immediately attracted by the simplicity of the product and the added energy benefit it would add to my homes.

Installation of the product was fairly easy. The product is much lighter than wood sheathing so the framers enjoyed being able to carry it with ease. They found the installation to be slightly more awkward because they were used to standing on wood sheathing as they nailed it to the walls before they are stood in place. Clearly, standing on the foam is not recommended. Otherwise, they were happy with the ease of installation. Using their pneumatic nailer, they were able to dial in the right amount of pressure to securely fasten the SIS™ board by ensuring the fastener head penetrated the foam and rested just on the outside of the structural member. We nailed the product every three inches as is recommended. Typically, wood sheathing is nailed every six inches. Using Dow’s WEATHERMATE tape, we taped all of the seams which proved much easier than installing and taping housewrap.

The Cost of the product is considerably more than traditional wood sheathing but that is in large part due to the fact that lumber prices are currently at a very low level. As lumber prices rise, the cost of wood sheathing and SIS™ board will draw closer together. It is not expected that SIS™ board prices will fluctuate like traditional lumber. The current cost difference is still worth the benefit provided in my assessment.

Besides the energy savings advantages of SIS™, the product is up to 80% post-consumer product which makes it a very green product.

On the downside, I had quite a number of folks question my decision to abandon wood sheathing. It took a detailed explanation from me before they realized it has the same structural abilities. And since I can’t be there all of the time to make that explanation, I worried about the perception it created. That, however, is a perception that is sure to be lessened as the word gets out on the benefits of insulated sheathing and the structural benefits provided by SIS™.

It would help, however, if Dow wasn’t insistent on prominently displaying its Styrofoam™ brand on the product. In big gigantic letters, the word “Styrofoam” adorns each sheet in several places. Then in smaller letters the words “Structural Insulated Sheathing”. Why not emphasize the word Structural? Help me out a little! But, no, the marketing geniuses at Dow felt promoting its Styrofoam™ brand more important.

Now when I think of Styrofaom, I think of a little white cooler that stores my beverages and incessantly sheds little white beads all over the place. It conjures up images of packing materials that are anything but sturdy. Certainly these aren’t the images I want going through a prospective homebuyer’s mind as they see their framing going up. “Hey look, John-we’ve got a Styrofoam house”. Seriously, what are they thinking?

Nonetheless, if you can look beyond the poor marketing, and look at the science behind the product, Dow has a real winner. I will definitely use the product again and feel completely comfortable recommending it to you as well.

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